After exploring all options and costs and talking with Iris leadership, we decided that we would take a bus from Nampula to Inchope (near Dondo) and that the Dondo team would pick us up at Inchope. In order to get to Nampula, however, we would first have to catch a ride on the camiao that was taking the 10-day extended outreach teams to their bush destination. This is the same outreach we would have been on had we not been going to Dondo.
The drive from Pemba to Nampula took a little over 7 hours. If you’ve never ridden on the back of a camiao, let me tell you, it’s quite an experience, especially on such a long drive. On this trip we had three camiaos, two of which were covered. Luggage, backpacks, food, sound equipment, generators, bottled water, and lots of people (about 40-50)…..all had to fit on these three camiaos.
The outreach team members had to bring enough bottled water for 10 days plus their large backpacks stuffed with their tents and sleeping bags. Four out of five of us going to Dondo, however, had to bring our entire luggage since we would not be returning to Pemba.
When you ride on a camiao, especially near the back where we were, you get covered in road dirt and exhaust. When we arrived in Nampula, we looked a few shades shy of a coal miner. Add grit in your eyes and lots of sweat and you can almost get the picture.
The camiaos first took the outreach teams to their temporary overnight destination, a gorgeous farm with a view of the mountains, a cute little house, a trampoline, and big shade trees. There was a wonderfully cool breeze, and it was so beautiful I could have just stayed there for days. The teams began setting up their tents, and several people practiced somersaults and back flips on the trampoline. The western landowner had a large curious pup with the sharpest puppy teeth I’ve ever seen. His goal seemed to be to steal what he could from the tents or if nothing else just chew on the tents for fun.
Once the teams had their gear unloaded, our Mozambican drivers and translators loaded up those of us headed to Dondo to take us back into Nampula to begin looking for a bus station where we could buy bus tickets to Dondo.
Wait. Did I say bus station? There wasn’t actually a bus station, but rather a couple of buses parked on empty lots at various points throughout the city. We had to drive to a couple of different ones to find a bus with vacant seats that would actually be heading where we needed to go.
We had arrived in Nampula on Monday. We found out the next available bus would not be leaving until Thursday morning at 2am, which means we would be staying over in Nampula for two nights.
Our Mozambican team members took us to the house of a local pastor, Aguinaldo, who so graciously opened his home to us. He is originally from Brazil, but he has been living in Mozambique for several years now. Aguinaldo is one of the kindest and gentlest men I’ve ever met. After our first nights stay in his house, the next morning the Lord spoke to Aguinaldo something regarding Jason. He pondered on it a few hours before telling us about it. He didn’t know anything about us, and yet this very specific word confirmed things that have been going on in our lives, the vision God gave Jason in India, and other words that have been giving to him. We then shared our story with Aguinaldo. It was such a joy to get to know him and fellowship with him and the rest of our “Dondo bound” team while we were there.
Wednesday we had to have our luggage to the bus by 5pm so they could load it on top of the bus. Yes…on TOP of the bus. Earlier that day we had a torrential downpour, so we just prayed that they would be covering the luggage with something to protect it from the rain.
We had to be at the bus before midnight in order to ensure we could secure our assigned seats—less problems that way. When we arrived, the luggage on top was covered with a tarp so that was a relief. Oddly, there was also a table and chairs tied to the top. On board the bus were several adults and children sound asleep. We took our seats and tried to sleep before the 15 hour bus ride began, but it quickly became very difficult to do so.
Outside two noisy drunk men staggered towards the bus. One stood next to the bus and began to urinate on it. At that point I was really glad our luggage was on top of the bus and not in a cargo area underneath. I was hoping these men weren’t going to be boarding the bus, but they did in fact come on board. They continued to be loud and obnoxious after taking their seats.
Just before 2 am, the bus crew boarded and began setting large trash barrels with lids in the aisles. We had no idea what these were for so we began to wonder if perhaps they were for motion sick people to vomit in or even worse did the presence of the barrels mean no stopping for bathroom breaks?
As soon as the bus took off, the driver drove the bus like a race horse at the gate, and turned the radio up to an incredibly loud volume. No rest for the weary on this trip!
As the sun began to rise a couple of hours later, a man began walking through the bus checking some passengers’ tickets. He saw us and said something to us in Portuguese. We didn’t understand and there was no one to interpret. He started pointing at our shirts and then his shirt. He began to get frustrated with us because we still did not understand. Tatielson and Michelle started speaking to him. I believe they were explaining to him that we don’t speak Portuguese. We were both wearing sleeveless shirts, and he seemed to be trying to tell us that we need a different shirt or a jacket. We pointed to the top of the bus to indicate that our other clothes were in our luggage. After a while he let it go. We assumed that maybe we weren’t supposed to have our shoulders exposed since in some rural areas your shoulders must be covered, but there were Mozambicans on the bus (both men and women) who had sleeveless shirts on as well so we really don’t know for sure.
During the course of the unairconditioned 15 hour bus ride, the bus only stopped three times for bathroom breaks. The first stop was in the middle of nowhere. Men looked for a spot on the left, and women headed to a field on the right. Everyone find your own bush! No peeking!
The next stop was in a small village and vendors quickly rushed the bus offering cold drinks and snacks like cookies, chips, dried fish, and fried bread. The strong smell of the dried fish coming from outside the bus was enough to make a person gag. I prayed that no one would bring it on board the bus, but a family sitting to the right of me and Jason bought some and quite enjoyed it. I often wonder just how far the Lord plans to stretch me, and each time I start wondering He just stretches me some more, so I think I’ll stop wondering. Ha,ha!
At this stop Isla and I began looking for a bathroom. We found one for a small fee of 5 meticals (about 16.5 cents). Also at this stop many more people boarded the bus. There were no available seats for them. They sat in the aisles with their bags and the food they brought with them. Someone on this stop also purchased 5 or 6 goats which, you guessed it, were tied to the top of the bus.
Click thumbnail for more photos..
When we arrived in Inchope, Jon and Julie met us to pick us up and take us to the Dondo base. It’s a lovely place. The dirt/sand in this part of Mozambique is white, whereas in Pemba it was red. There is a lot of grass in our new surroundings as well….thick beautiful blades of grass. There are even little lawns in front of the base housing.
In the evening the Dondo missionaries prepared a wonderful spaghetti meal for everyone complete with garlic toast and one of the most delicious peach cobblers I’ve ever had. Yum!We are temporarily housed with the Brazilian couple, Tatielson and Michelle. They only speak Portuguese, and we only speak English. If I understood group discussions correctly, Tatielson and Michelle will be taking over direction of the Bible School and issues regarding the church.
Very survivor ish photos you guys! I miss you both so much! I love you guys! Crystal
ReplyDelete